Field notes

Longer stories from the road.

The bits that don't fit in a video. The history, the name, the numbers, the small things I want to tell you properly. New ones land when they land.

• Going home to the village my father left

  Everyone photographs the monuments. This is the other India, the village my father left as a boy, and what it feels like to keep going back.

• Why we call it Papadum Diaries

  A papadum is the crispiest thing on the table and impossible to ignore. So am I. Here's the whole story behind the name.

• What one pound actually buys you in Delhi

  Back home it wouldn't cover a coffee. Here it's a full plate, a bag of warm peanuts, and change. Let me show you.